Pamukkale

One of the most familiar images of Turkey is the gleaming white calcium formations (travertine pools) of Pamukkale, 19 km north of the city of Denizli. From a distance, these Unesco World Heritage-listed pools form a white scar on the side of a ridge. As you come closer, they take on a more distinct shape, giving credence to Pamukkale’s name, which means “Cotton Castle”. Pamukkale was formed when warm mineral water cascaded over the cliff edge, cooling and depositing its calcium in the process. The cilium-built natural shelves, pools and stalactites in which tourist delighted to splash and soak.

The Romans built a large spa city, Hierapolis, above the travertine pools to take advantage of the water’s curative powers. The tourist boom of the 1980s and 1990s practically ruined the site, as a line of hotels above the travertines drained the waters. Since then, hotels have been demolished, and visitors can no longer bathe in the pools. However, since the flow of water still seems very slow, it may be that the real culprits are all those swimming pools below in the village. Pamukkale village has some charming hotels and pensions, with gardens and swimming pools. The rather tourist main street aside, it’s actually a good place to get a taste of Turkish village life. Tractors trundle up and down the streets, goats and chickens peck away. Pamukkale also makes a good base for day trips to Afrodisias and Laodikya. Father Haydar Cave, a bizarre travertine-filled cave, is another possible day trip.